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می دونید چجوری باید کت و شلوار انتخاب کنید؟


کت و شلوار

یقه کت باید به صورت کامل بر روی قسمت قفسه سینه شما نشسته باشد و هیچ گونه پفی در این قسمت مشاهده نشود

یقه کت می بایست به شکلی در قسمت پشت گردنتان قرار گیرد که همواره قسمت کوچکی از یقه پیراهن تان مشخص می شود

ساسون پشت:

کت شما در قسمت پشت و در ناحیه ساسون نباید باز شده باشد (در حقیقت کت می بایست در قسمت پشتی کاملا صاف و بدون هیچ گونه چین خوردگی به تن شما ایستاده باشد

آستین:

آستین کت تقریبا باید ۱۲ سانتی متر بالاتر از نوک شصت شما باشد

آستین کت های رسمی و اسپرت باید طوری طراحی شوند که حدود ۱ تا ۳ سانتی متر از سر آستین پیراهنی که زیر آن پوشیده اید مشخص باشد

شلوار:

استفاده از کت و شلوارهای غیر رسمی که کت های آن ها، مانند کت های رسمی، شانه های پهن ندارند و در داخل آن ها از آستری استفاده نشده، جهت موقعیت های معمولی و غیر رسمی یک انتخاب کاملا صحیح به نظر می رسد

شلوار مناسب برای کت و شلوار می بایست باسن کاملا صاف و بدون هیچ گونه چین خوردگی، به تن شما بنشیند و قسمت جلوی آن نیز می بایست کاملا یکنواخت بایستد. در غیر این صورت سایز و یا برش شلوارتان مناسب با اندام شما نخواهد بود

با توجه به گستردگی انواع شلوار، از نظر تعداد پیله (بدون پیله، تک پیله یا دو پیله) و همچنین از نظر پاچه شلوار (ساده و یا پاکتی) شما می توانید با توجه به سلیقه ی شخصی خود، بهترین را برای خود برگزینید

شلوارهای کت و شلوار را در صورتی که پیله دار هستند، حتما پاکتی کنید ولی اگر جلوی شلوار صاف و بدون پیله است، هیچ الزامی برای این کار وجود ندارد و آن به سلیقه شما بستگی دارد اگر پاچه شلوار کت و شلوارتان پاکتی باشد شکل رسمی تر به خود می گیرد. در مقابل، قد شما را کوتاه تر نشان می دهد بنابراین اگر می خواهید بلند تر به نظر برسید شلواری را انتخاب کنید که پاچه آن پاکتی نباشد اگر کت و شلوار شما از نوع رسمی است، حتما باید اندازه ی قد شلوار روی کفش تان قرار بگیرد، شلوارهای با اندازه ی کوتاه تا قوزک پا برای کت و شلوارهای نیمه رسمی است

برش:

کت های دو طرف دکمه دار نسبت به کت های جدید که یک طرف آن ها دکمه دارد مناسب برای مصارف عمومی نیستند. مگر آنکه قصد داشته باشید مجموعه کت و شلوارهای خود را خریدن این مدل کامل تر کنید

سایز:
کت و شلوار نوعی سایزبندی مخصوص به خود دارد که به طور کامل در سه دراپ (Drop)

مختلف، ۴، ۶، ۸ موجود است . دراپ ۴ برای افراد کوتاه قد، دراپ ۶ برای افراد با قد متوسط و در نهایت دراپ ۸ برای افراد بلند قد مناسب است
نحوه ی سایز بندی شلوار معمولی کمی متفاوت است. البته می توانید به روش خیلی ساده آن را به خاطر بسپارید. به این ترتیب که سایز کت و شلوار شما به اندازه ۶ واحد از سایز شلوار تک شما بیشتر است . (به عنوان مثال فردی که سایز شلوارش ۴۸ است ، سایز کت و شلوارش ۵۴ می باشد)
نباید سایز کت و شلوارتان زیاد بزرگ بوده و سرشانه های کت باید جذب شانه هایتان باشد

رنگ:
جهت خرید کت و شلوار، رنگ های مشکی، سرمه ای، زغال سنگی، توسی و قهوه ای را به ترتیب در اولویت انتخاب خود قرار دهید

همواره سعی کنید کت و شلواری انتخاب کنید که با گستره ی رنگی بیشتری از پیراهن هایتان هماهنگ شود
کت و شلواری که رنگ آن مشکی باشد و با یک پیراهن سفید آن را هماهنگ کرده و بپوشید یک کت و شلوار مردانه تمام کلاسیک است

ست کردن:

برای یک کت و شلوار و پیراهن ساده، می توانید از هر کراوات ساده ای که رنگ آن با کت و پیراهن شما هماهنگ باشد، استفاده کنید. البته این به معنای آن نیست که مثلا آبی را فقط با آبی بپوشید. شما می توانید یک کراوات زرد را انتخاب کنید که بر روی یک کت و شلوار و پیراهن آبی عالی به نظر می رسد

برای کت و شلوار راه راه، اگر راه های آن ضعیف و کمرنگ هستند، رنگ خود کت را زمینه اصلی قرار دهید و کراوات را با آن هماهنگ کنید، درست مثل اینکه یک کت ساده پوشیده اید. اما اگر راه های کت برجسته و مشخص هستند، کراواتی را انتخاب کنید که به خوبی با رنگ راه های کت شما هماهنگ باشد. به عنوان مثال؛ کتی با راه های قرمز مشخص را می توانید با کراوات قرمز رنگ بپوشید

پوشیدن کت و شلوار سفید نیز مانند یک بوم سفید نقاشی است که می توانید هر رنگ و طرح کراواتی
را که دوست دارید با آن بپوشید

لزومی ندارد کت و شلوارهای خود را همواره با پیراهن های کلاسیک آستین بلند بپوشید بلکه می توانید از پیراهن های کلاسیک آستین کوتاه و یا تی شرت های ساده یقه گرد، یقه هفت و یقه سه دکمه نیز استفاده کنید

عمومی:

در هنگام خرید کت و شلوار علاوه بر مارک هایی که به همراه کالاست یک مارک پارچه ای بر روی آستین کت توسط دو بخیه کوچک متصل شده است که بسیاری از این افراد این مارک را از روی آستین شان جدا نمی کنند و با همان در موقعیت های رسمی بزرگ نیز شرکت می کنند لذا تقاضا می شود این مورد را قطعا رعایت کنید

اگر کت راه دار انتخاب می کنید، دقت کنید که راه های کت در قسمت شانه و برگردان یقه مرتب و در یک ردیف باشد در هنگام خرید کت و شلوار پارچه آن را مچاله کنید تا از میزان چروک شدن آن مطلع شوید



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